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The Buzz

About: A Pioneer Perfume Blog est. 2006 by Chantal-Hélène Wagner. A Blog on Perfume & Society, with Notes on Beauty - News, Reviews, Interviews, Commentary & Criticism.

I earned a doctorate in anthropology after managing a multi-year, fieldwork research on foodways & social memory in several comparative geographic areas.

I have smelled the steppes of Mongolia, the oil fields of Kazakhstan, Soviet apartments, and the subway in New York and Paris. They all smell strangely exotic, with one common point: the scent of humanity.

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THE PERFUME BUZZ

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Paris Hilton Heiress

Vivienne Westwood Let It Rock

Nuxe Body Relaxing Fragrant Water

Serge Lutens L'Orpheline

Molinard Vanille Marine

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde

Creed Acqua Originale Asian Green Tea

Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle, The Reformulation

Caudalie Parfum Divin

Balmain Extatic

Nicolaï, Parfumeur-Créateur Musc Monoï

Balenciaga Rosabotanica

Clinique Beyond Rose

Van Cleef & Arpels California Rêverie

Diptyque Eau de Lavande

Diptyque Geranium Odorata

DKNY City Blossom Rooftop Peony, Urban Violet & Empire Apple

Beyoncé Rise

Roger et Gallet Gingembre Rouge

Dolce & Gabbana Dolce

Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto L'Eclat

Sisley Eau Tropicale

Avon Far Away Gold

Carven L'Eau de Toilette

Paco Rabanne Black XS Potion for Her

Escada Born in Paradise

Viktor & Rolf BonBon

Tory Burch Eau de Parfum

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part II

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part I

Reiss Grey Flower

Dior Gris Montaigne

Marni Rose

Paco Rabanne Invictus

Estée Lauder Modern Muse

Fendi L'Acquarossa

Gucci Première

Guerlain Nerolia Bianca

Carven, Le Parfum

Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrée & Eau de Narcisse Bleu

HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi l'Aurora

Lancôme La Vie est Belle

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes for Film-Noir Viewing

The Story of the Royal Anointing Oil in England: From the Sacred to the Fragrant

A Perfume Blog Ought to be Cross-Cultural

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s


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September 2, 2014



L'Occitane Arlésienne (2014) {New Fragrance}

arlesienne_occitane_provence.jpg L'Occitane en Provence are preparing to release a new feminine perfume baptized Arlésienne after the myth of an elusive and mythical woman who may never materialize in real life and yet is a focal point of intense expectations...

Continue reading "L'Occitane Arlésienne (2014) {New Fragrance}" »

September 1, 2014

Carven Vétiver & Carven pour Homme Relaunches (2014) {New Fragrances} {Men's Cologne}

vetiver_carven_2014.jpg Parfums Carven have relaunched two of their men's classics, Vétiver (1957) and Carven pour Homme (1999) in new, contemporary packagings...

Continue reading "Carven Vétiver & Carven pour Homme Relaunches (2014) {New Fragrances} {Men's Cologne}" »

Saskia Diez Gold, Silver (2013) {New Fragrances}

Saskia_Diez_GOLD.jpg Last year in the fall of 2013, German jewelry designer Saskia Diez released two new fragrances called Gold and Silver...

Continue reading "Saskia Diez Gold, Silver (2013) {New Fragrances}" »

Olfactive Studio Ombre Indigo (2014) {New Fragrance}

Olfactive_Studio_Ombre_Indigo.jpg French niche brand Olfactive Studio are introducing a new fragrance entitled Ombre Indigo this September inspired by a photography by Brazilian photographer Gustavo Pellizzon from his Encanto series (Enchantment)...

Continue reading "Olfactive Studio Ombre Indigo (2014) {New Fragrance}" »

Ulrich Lang Aperture (2014) {New Fragrance}

Aperture_Ulrich_Lang.jpg Niche perfume label Ulrich Lang have launched a new fragrance called Aperture, named after the non-for-profit foundation Est. 1952 which encourages the work of photographers and appreciation of photography...

Continue reading "Ulrich Lang Aperture (2014) {New Fragrance}" »

August 30, 2014

Tom Ford Velvet Orchid - To be Faithful yet Unfaithful (2014) {Perfume Review & Musings}

Cara_Delevingne_velvet_orchid.jpg

From Black Orchid to Velvet Orchid or Black Fading into Purple

The original sultry tropical signature of Black Orchid by Tom Ford (2006) is immediately recognizable in the new Velvet Orchid, which turns out to be a flanker, only with a special conceptual twist.

There it is this familiar accord, with its over ripe pineapple and coconuty nuances. For a moment, you wonder if you are not faced with a novel paradox: the flanker which is so faithful to the original that it is not really a flanker anymore but a sligh rebottled affirmation of the matrix fragrance. In the land populated with forests of flankers, the reverse usually takes place: trees echo the name of a matrix-perfume while letting out unrelated sillages for brand recognition reasons. This means that often people do not bother crafting a coherent flanker. There is no philosophy of flankers that we know of, but rather marketing opportunities...

Continue reading "Tom Ford Velvet Orchid - To be Faithful yet Unfaithful (2014) {Perfume Review & Musings}" »

August 28, 2014

Burberry My Burberry - Fronted by Cara Delevingne & Kate Moss (2014) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}

my_burberry.jpg

Burberry have launched a new fragrance for women called My Burberry to evoke the affective link which might exist between one of the well-worn house iconic trenches and its proprietor...

Continue reading "Burberry My Burberry - Fronted by Cara Delevingne & Kate Moss (2014) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}" »

Shiseido Zen Sun for Her & Him (2014) {New Fragrances}

Zen_Sun_2014.jpg Shiseido have introduced a new limited-edition duo of fragrances called Zen Sun for Her and Zen Sun for Him...

Continue reading "Shiseido Zen Sun for Her & Him (2014) {New Fragrances}" »



        

Latest Comments

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Ho Hang by Balenciaga {Perfume Review & Musings} {Men's Cologne of the Week} : What an exotic way to wear Ho Hang :) It adds to ...

Gail on Ho Hang by Balenciaga {Perfume Review & Musings} {Men's Cologne of the Week} : Having been a flight attendant traveling all over the world. Found Ho ...

CathyG on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : I also used Santana Musk oil back in the 70s. It was ...

wilhelmina on Jessica Simpson The Signature Fragrance (2014) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Perfume} : The sale's associate at Macy's sprayed my wrist with Jessica Simpson-signature. The ...

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on More News on Lady Gaga Eau de Gaga (2014) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} : Thank you - marketing is so fluid, it's scary :)

Private information on More News on Lady Gaga Eau de Gaga (2014) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} : Hello, just learned the ad photo from the Fame Black Fluid shooting. ...

Mark on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : Definitely! The Satana Musk of the early 70's was in a small ...

Krissy on Jessica Simpson The Signature Fragrance (2014) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Perfume} : I found my bottle at Ulta, it was the last one and ...

sandra Lawrence on Hmm, Madame Glamour by Lidl or Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel? {Fragrance News} : I love suddenly Madame Glamour, it is the best

Guest on Jessica Simpson The Signature Fragrance (2014) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Perfume} : Where can you get the 1-oz. edp spray??? I have been looking ...

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