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Monthly Archives from March 2006

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About: A Pioneer Perfume Blog est. 2006 for People Into the Nitty-Gritty of Smells & Tastes as seen in The NY Times, Independent, Vogue, Elle...By Chantal-Hélène Wagner... The Scented Salamander was the first perfume blog to creatively establish editorial and conceptual bridges between fine perfume, food, space & visual culture - at a time when critics were positioning fragrance as a purist art object - include indie brands, underline the team-aspect of perfume authorship, as well as offer broad sociological context in a fragrance industry biased towards aspirational luxury and sensuality... I'm a PhD in Anthropology, a former Lavoisier Scholar at Oxford University, who's worked on foodways, identity & death as well as an English literature major now turned perfume blogger & chronicler out of conviction, passion & intellectual curiosity. That's the short of it.

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New Fragrance Reviews - Shopping Ideas

Beyoncé Rise

Roger et Gallet Gingembre Rouge

Dolce & Gabbana Dolce

Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto L'Eclat

Sisley Eau Tropicale

Avon Far Away Gold

Carven L'Eau de Toilette 

Paco Rabanne Black XS Potion for Her

Escada Born in Paradise

Dita Von Teese Erotique

The Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose Mesk

Viktor & Rolf BonBon

L'Occitane Cerisier Rouge Eau Intense

Jo Malone Rain Collection

Tory Burch Eau de Parfum

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part II

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part I

L'Occitane Cèdre et Oranger

Reiss Grey Flower

Dior Gris Montaigne 

Marni Rose 

The Body Shop White Musk Smoky Rose

Paco Rabanne Invictus 

Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Velours 

Estée Lauder Modern Muse

Fendi L'Acquarossa

L'Occitane La Collection de Grasse

Gucci Première 

Guerlain Nerolia Bianca

Carven, Le Parfum

Tom Ford Sahara Noir

Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrée & Eau de Narcisse Bleu

Marni Eau de Parfum

Tom Ford Noir

Dolce & Gabbana The One Desire 

Chanel 1932

Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle

HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi l'Aurora

Lancôme La Vie est Belle

Fragrance Essays 

Should We Curse when Critiquing a Fragrance?

Perfumes for Film-Noir Viewing

The Story of the Royal Anointing Oil in England: From the Sacred to the Fragrant

A Perfume Blog Ought to be Cross-Cultural

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

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April 15, 2014

Davidoff Cool Water Night Dive (2014) {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}


Cool Water Gets the Same Twist as Found in Habanita


The classic men's fragrance Davidoff Cool Water has been revisited this year for a new nocturnal twist called Cool Water Night Dive. The composition is said to feature a significant note of lentisc or mastic, conferring it a green oriental character...

Continue reading "Davidoff Cool Water Night Dive (2014) {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}" »

Diesel Loverdose Tattoo Eau de Toilette (2014) {New Perfume}



The Scent of Steamed Rice in a Scientific Aphrodisiac Potion


Diesel have introduced a new flanker to Loverdose Tattoo, itself a spin on Loverdose. The new scent called Loverdose Tattoo Eau de Toilette asserts itself as a subtle variation on its predecessor even in the glass color used, which is just a few shades of salmon pink brighter, lightening up the black bottle...

Continue reading "Diesel Loverdose Tattoo Eau de Toilette (2014) {New Perfume}" »

Philosophy Sunshine Grace (2014) {New Fragrance} {Beauty Notes - Bath & Body}



Smell Good, Feel Good


Philosophy have released a new, limited-edition fragrance called Sunshine Grace, in keeping with their love for inspirational messages. This time, the tag line is "grace makes every day brighter,"...

Continue reading "Philosophy Sunshine Grace (2014) {New Fragrance} {Beauty Notes - Bath & Body}" »

KFC Get Into the Love Game with a Fried Chicken Corsage {The 5th Sense in the News} {Food News}




KFC have launched an unlikely limited-edition fried chicken corsage to ring in prom season. Issued at 100 copies it aims to be a creative promotional effort for the chain thanks to the marrying of two opposites: deep-fried, batter-slapped-on chicken with teenage romance, with the further help of baby breaths embellishment, in a tongue-in-cheek pairing captured on film...

The New Flavor of Young Love

Continue reading "KFC Get Into the Love Game with a Fried Chicken Corsage {The 5th Sense in the News} {Food News}" »

April 14, 2014

Diptyque Géranium Odorata (2014) {New Perfume}

diptyque - Geranium Odorata_100ml.jpg

Paying Closer Attention to Unassuming Blooms 


French niche brand Diptyque will introduce two new scents in their Eaux Florales collection this spring 2014 after Eau Rose and Eau Mohéli. One of the two is called Géranium Odorata. As its name indicates, the composition focuses on the geranium flower...

Continue reading "Diptyque Géranium Odorata (2014) {New Perfume}" »

April 10, 2014

4711 Wunderwasser für Sie und Ihn / for Her & Him (2014) {New Fragrances} {Men's Cologne}


When Aqua Mirabilis Wears Blue Jeans 


The house of 4711, creators of the world-famous classic Mülhens 4711 cologne, have released a new duo of fragrances for her and him aiming to appeal to a younger generation of 4711 devotees. Wunderwasser for Her and Wunderwasser for Him eaux de cologne were composed respectively by perfumers Véronique Nyberg and Vincent Schaller...

Continue reading "4711 Wunderwasser für Sie und Ihn / for Her & Him (2014) {New Fragrances} {Men's Cologne}" »

April 8, 2014

Beyoncé Rise (2014): This is a Celebrity Juice {Perfume Short (Review)} {Celebrity Fragrance}


Motivational Message in a Bottle 


Celebrity juice or celebrity perfume? That is the main question when it comes to gauging a big-name perfume. So many olfactory stereotypes abound in the field. With Rise by Beyoncé, you will mostly get her signature or brand name and the empowering message attached to the fragrance meant to stir women out of their daily funk. She said, "The spirit of Rise encourages women to be all that we are,” Apart from that, Rise is a juice. It rehashes a few select titbits plucked out from a plethora of predictable perfumery accords. It's not unpleasant but if you follow perfume it's pretty much yawn-inducing...

Continue reading "Beyoncé Rise (2014): This is a Celebrity Juice {Perfume Short (Review)} {Celebrity Fragrance}" »

Elizabeth Arden Go Full On Aqua for Summer 2014 with 5 New Fragrances




Arden are Launching a Shower of Perfumes


Elizabeth Arden have developed or reissued a series of no less than five new fragrances for summer 2014. Three are consecrated to twists on Green Tea with Green Tea Tropical (2007), Green Tea Summer (2005) and Green Tea Yuzu (2014) while the Sunflowers franchise is updated with Sunflowers Summer Bloom (2014) and Sunflowers Dream Petals (2012). Their common characteristic is to leave a large expressive room to the aquatic theme...

Continue reading "Elizabeth Arden Go Full On Aqua for Summer 2014 with 5 New Fragrances" »

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Latest Comments

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Byredo Bal d'Afrique (2009): Cake-Walking at the Bal d'Afrique {Perfume Review & Musings} : Thanks!

Haardt Moses on Byredo Bal d'Afrique (2009): Cake-Walking at the Bal d'Afrique {Perfume Review & Musings} : great article!

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Tom Ford Velvet Orchid - Nearly All the Facts (2014) {New Perfume} : Yes, you'll be able to find it in April in France

nealcohen on 70s Cult Favorite Aqua Manda Perfume to Make a Comeback! {Fragrance News} : Well I would say the 5000 bottles sold , 40 stockists, 400 ...

Gia on Tom Ford Velvet Orchid - Nearly All the Facts (2014) {New Perfume} : It is already out in the US, but do you know when ...

Rose on Bond No.9 Hudson Yards (2014): The Anticipatory Scent of a Redevelopment Project {New Perfume} : I love that they're doing something new for something new in NYC. ...

Marianne Arida on Ajmal Perfumes Bling (2012) {New Perfume} : I would like to know where can I find BLING perfume. In ...

Cecil Moore on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : I am searching again for C&Es original men's scent. Only Gray Flannel ...

Jihane Dorhmi on Neblina/L'Esprit de Neblina by Yves Rocher {Perfume Review & Musings} : Bonjour. Je me demande pourquoi Yves rocher ont arrêté la production de ...

angela rayner on Perfume Review & Musings: Norell by Norell : I first tried Norrell in the mid 1970"S.I fell in love with ...


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