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Monthly Archives from March 2006

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About: A Pioneer Perfume Blog est. 2006 by Chantal-Hélène Wagner. A Blog on Perfume & Society, with Notes on Beauty - News, Reviews, Interviews, Commentary & Criticism.

I earned a doctorate in anthropology after managing a multi-year, fieldwork research on foodways & social memory in several comparative geographic areas.

I have smelled the steppes of Mongolia, the oil fields of Kazakhstan, Soviet apartments, and the subway in New York and Paris. They all smell strangely exotic, with one common point: the scent of humanity 

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THE SCENTED SALAMANDER

New Fragrance Reviews

Nuxe Body Relaxing Fragrant Water

Serge Lutens L'Orpheline

Molinard Vanille Marine

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde

Creed Acqua Originale Asian Green Tea

Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle, The Reformulation

Caudalie Parfum Divin

Balmain Extatic

Nicolaï, Parfumeur-Créateur Musc Monoï

Balenciaga Rosabotanica

Clinique Beyond Rose

Van Cleef & Arpels California Rêverie

Diptyque Eau de Lavande 

Diptyque Geranium Odorata 

DKNY City Blossom Rooftop Peony, Urban Violet & Empire Apple

Beyoncé Rise

Roger et Gallet Gingembre Rouge

Dolce & Gabbana Dolce

Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto L'Eclat

Sisley Eau Tropicale

Avon Far Away Gold

Carven L'Eau de Toilette 

Paco Rabanne Black XS Potion for Her

Escada Born in Paradise

Dita Von Teese Erotique

The Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose Mesk

Viktor & Rolf BonBon

Tory Burch Eau de Parfum

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part II

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part I

Reiss Grey Flower

Dior Gris Montaigne 

Marni Rose 

Paco Rabanne Invictus 

Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Velours 

Estée Lauder Modern Muse

Fendi L'Acquarossa

Gucci Première 

Guerlain Nerolia Bianca

Carven, Le Parfum

Tom Ford Sahara Noir

Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrée & Eau de Narcisse Bleu

Marni Eau de Parfum

Tom Ford Noir

Dolce & Gabbana The One Desire 

Chanel 1932

Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle

HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi l'Aurora

Lancôme La Vie est Belle

Fragrance Essays 

Should We Curse when Critiquing a Fragrance?

Perfumes for Film-Noir Viewing

The Story of the Royal Anointing Oil in England: From the Sacred to the Fragrant

A Perfume Blog Ought to be Cross-Cultural

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s


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July 31, 2014



Kenzo Jeu d'Amour (2014) {New Perfume}

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Kenzo will introduce a new flanker to Kenzo Amour (2006) called Jeu d'Amour (Game of Love). The advertizing campaign is fronted by French actress and ex darling weather girl Louise Bourgoin...

Continue reading "Kenzo Jeu d'Amour (2014) {New Perfume}" »

Diane Pernet Launches Quatuor of Fragrances (2014) {New Perfumes}

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Diane Pernet, a fashion silhouette recognizable a mile away & founder of a fashion short film festival, is turning to perfume  with To Be Honest, Wanted, In Pursuit of Magic and Shaded, the latter named after her blog A Shaded View on Fashion...

Continue reading "Diane Pernet Launches Quatuor of Fragrances (2014) {New Perfumes}" »

July 29, 2014

Avon Parisian Chic (2014) {New Perfume}

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Avon have launched a new fruity-chypre called Parisian Chic.  The new jus created by Givaudan is said to be complex and represent "the essence of style"...

Continue reading "Avon Parisian Chic (2014) {New Perfume}" »

July 28, 2014

Diana Vreeland Perfumes - Immoderate Parfum (2014) {New Fragrances}

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In their book Diana Vreeland : Immoderate Style, Harold Koda and Richard Martin write of the former Vogue editor that,

"Seen or unseen, Vreeland insisted on the transfigured moment, the ordinary rendered extraordinary. Betsy Pickering Kaiser, for example, tells the story of a fashion shoot at which Vreeland, vexed by the insufficinecy of aura, made no visual change, but simply sprayed perfume...

Continue reading "Diana Vreeland Perfumes - Immoderate Parfum (2014) {New Fragrances}" »

July 27, 2014

Nuxe Body Relaxing Fragrant Water - Skin in the City (2014) {Perfume Review}

Nuxe_Eau_Delassante_Relaxing.jpg

French beauty brand Nuxe have been turning to their beauty products for perfume inspiration as others before them. After Prodigieux le Parfum in 2012 inspired by their cult beauty product L'Huile Prodigieuse, they are now proposing a wellness scent inspired by "the delicacy of a caress" and their Body range called Relaxing Fragrant Water, or again in French Eau Délassante Parfumante...

Continue reading "Nuxe Body Relaxing Fragrant Water - Skin in the City (2014) {Perfume Review}" »

July 25, 2014

Serge Lutens L'Orpheline (2014) - On Motherly Love In Absentia & Anger {Perfume Review & Musings}

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L'Orpheline, a feminine name, edges masculine from the onset. There are flashes of masculinity glimmering in the darkness of the fragrance only contradicted by powdery nuances. After a while, the powder trail turns into a sueded sensation...

Continue reading "Serge Lutens L'Orpheline (2014) - On Motherly Love In Absentia & Anger {Perfume Review & Musings}" »

July 24, 2014

Gucci Première Eau de Toilette Celebrates Your "Champagne Moments" (2014) {New Perfume}

Gucci_Premiere_EDT.jpg

Gucci will launch a new counterpart to Gucci Première Eau de Parfum (2012) called Gucci Premère Eau de Toilette from October 2014...

Continue reading "Gucci Première Eau de Toilette Celebrates Your "Champagne Moments" (2014) {New Perfume}" »

July 23, 2014

Chopard Rose Malaki (2014) {New Perfume}

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Chopard take inspiration from the luxuriating and mythical aura of the Queen of Flowers with their new perfume called Rose Malaki for both men and women... 

Continue reading "Chopard Rose Malaki (2014) {New Perfume}" »



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Latest Comments

Emm on Bella Freud Ginsberg is God, 1970 & Je T'Aime Jane EDPs (2014) {New Perfumes} : Is Je Ta'ime Jane available anywhere in the United States?

El hassen Hamadi on New Perfume: Men's Lotus Fragrance : I want to know how to find this fragrance

Ricardo Torres on Zadig & Voltaire now under Shiseido / BPI Umbrella after Azzedine Alaïa {Fragrance News} : Very exciting. BPI knows how to build a long term selling strategy ...

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Index of New Perfumes in 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006 {New Fragrances} : I remember purchasing it once on eBay Germany.

Marion taylor on Index of New Perfumes in 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006 {New Fragrances} : I am trying to find marcella primeur por femme if anyone can ...

Sadra on Bottega Veneta Knot (2014) {New Fragrance} : THAT BOTTLE! Although I love the original BV, the notes in this ...

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes (2010) {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance} : Wow, I didn't feel it was that bad! Obviously, the halo effect ...

ramonjurado01 on Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes (2010) {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance} : I don't perceive any of this when wearing this perfume or even ...

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Tuberose Gardenia Private Collection by Estée Lauder {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance} : We don't stock perfumes ourselves, we only write and talk about them! ...

Sandra Pantelopoulos on Tuberose Gardenia Private Collection by Estée Lauder {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance} : My daughter gave Me a Sample of your Gardenia Private Collection! It ...

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