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Monthly Archives from March 2006

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About: A Pioneer Perfume Blog est. 2006 by Chantal-Hélène Wagner. A Blog on Perfume & Society, with Notes on Beauty - News, Reviews, Interviews, Commentary & Criticism.

I earned a doctorate in anthropology after managing a multi-year, fieldwork research on foodways & social memory in several comparative geographic areas.

I have smelled the steppes of Mongolia, the oil fields of Kazakhstan, Soviet apartments, and the subway in New York and Paris. They all smell strangely exotic, with one common point: the scent of humanity 

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THE SCENTED SALAMANDER

New Fragrance Reviews

Molinard Vanille Marine

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde

Creed Acqua Originale Asian Green Tea

Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle, The Reformulation

Caudalie Parfum Divin

Balmain Extatic

Nicolaï, Parfumeur-Créateur Musc Monoï

Balenciaga Rosabotanica

Clinique Beyond Rose

Van Cleef & Arpels California Rêverie

Diptyque Eau de Lavande 

Diptyque Geranium Odorata 

DKNY City Blossom Rooftop Peony, Urban Violet & Empire Apple

Beyoncé Rise

Roger et Gallet Gingembre Rouge

Dolce & Gabbana Dolce

Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto L'Eclat

Sisley Eau Tropicale

Avon Far Away Gold

Carven L'Eau de Toilette 

Paco Rabanne Black XS Potion for Her

Escada Born in Paradise

Dita Von Teese Erotique

The Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose Mesk

Viktor & Rolf BonBon

Tory Burch Eau de Parfum

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part II

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part I

Reiss Grey Flower

Dior Gris Montaigne 

Marni Rose 

Paco Rabanne Invictus 

Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Velours 

Estée Lauder Modern Muse

Fendi L'Acquarossa

Gucci Première 

Guerlain Nerolia Bianca

Carven, Le Parfum

Tom Ford Sahara Noir

Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrée & Eau de Narcisse Bleu

Marni Eau de Parfum

Tom Ford Noir

Dolce & Gabbana The One Desire 

Chanel 1932

Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle

HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi l'Aurora

Lancôme La Vie est Belle

Fragrance Essays 

Should We Curse when Critiquing a Fragrance?

Perfumes for Film-Noir Viewing

The Story of the Royal Anointing Oil in England: From the Sacred to the Fragrant

A Perfume Blog Ought to be Cross-Cultural

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s


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July 21, 2014



Bella Freud Ginsberg is God, 1970 & Je T'Aime Jane EDPs (2014) {New Perfumes}

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British fashion designer Bella Freud is preparing to launch a trio of fragrances inspired by her eponymous candles which are baptized with the same names of Ginsberg is God, 1970 and Je T'Aime Jane...

Continue reading "Bella Freud Ginsberg is God, 1970 & Je T'Aime Jane EDPs (2014) {New Perfumes}" »

July 20, 2014

Molinard Vanille Marine (1998) {Perfume Review}

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The sound of a perfume named Vanille Marine is on the side of ungodly. Somehow, you a get a knee jerk reaction to what must be a priori cheap, debased and to sum up, olfactorily Kitsch. Except that it's precisely the scent you went away with when you visited the wall of Molinard perfumes at the Galeries Lafayette. It made you stop and pay closer attention. Next, you concluded "addictive" and a "must-have". Several years later you wonder if you were in your right mind then, because you don't necessarily wear the perfumes you like best commiting than rather to your memory. So you revisit the jus which made you question your lucidity. A quick check on the notes gives you a glimpse of the 5 yellow stars in online reviews of it. You are not alone. If the name suggests a good dreck, other people have felt enthusiasm too for this, aparently, unsung hero...

Continue reading "Molinard Vanille Marine (1998) {Perfume Review}" »

July 18, 2014

Guy Laroche Drakkar Essence Featuring Cam Newton (2014) {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne} {Celebrity Perfume}

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Guy Laroche are launching a new iteration of the 80s men's classic Drakkar called Drakkar Essence, which campaign is fronted by NFL Carolina Panthers quaterback Cam Newton...

Continue reading "Guy Laroche Drakkar Essence Featuring Cam Newton (2014) {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne} {Celebrity Perfume}" »

Bottega Veneta Knot (2014) {New Fragrance}

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Bottega Veneta are launching a new perfume for women from late August 2014 called Knot, in reference to their bestselling Knot Clutch...

Continue reading "Bottega Veneta Knot (2014) {New Fragrance}" »

July 16, 2014

Avon Instinct Forbidden is Fronted by Megan Fox (2014) {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}

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Avon has introduced a new flanker to Instinct which further explores where things can really get out of control, as in the jungle, with Instinct Forbidden... 

Continue reading "Avon Instinct Forbidden is Fronted by Megan Fox (2014) {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}" »

Dennis Basso Summer (2014) {New Perfume}

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American fashion designer Dennis Basso is launching a new scent this summer which gets straight to the point: it's called, well, Summer...

Continue reading "Dennis Basso Summer (2014) {New Perfume}" »

Isaac Mizrahi Eau So Fabulous (2014) {New Perfume}

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American fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi has introduced a new flanker to Fabulous (2012) called emphatically and in jest Eau So Fabulous...

Continue reading "Isaac Mizrahi Eau So Fabulous (2014) {New Perfume}" »

Ghost Eclipse is Fronted by Poppy Delevingne (2014) {New Fragrance}

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British fashion label Ghost have launched a new perfume for women called Eclipse, which is fronted by Poppy Delevingne...

Continue reading "Ghost Eclipse is Fronted by Poppy Delevingne (2014) {New Fragrance}" »



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Latest Comments

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Index of New Perfumes in 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006 {New Fragrances} : I remember purchasing it once on eBay Germany.

Marion taylor on Index of New Perfumes in 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006 {New Fragrances} : I am trying to find marcella primeur por femme if anyone can ...

Sadra on Bottega Veneta Knot (2014) {New Fragrance} : THAT BOTTLE! Although I love the original BV, the notes in this ...

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes (2010) {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance} : Wow, I didn't feel it was that bad! Obviously, the halo effect ...

ramonjurado01 on Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes (2010) {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance} : I don't perceive any of this when wearing this perfume or even ...

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Tuberose Gardenia Private Collection by Estée Lauder {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance} : We don't stock perfumes ourselves, we only write and talk about them! ...

Sandra Pantelopoulos on Tuberose Gardenia Private Collection by Estée Lauder {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance} : My daughter gave Me a Sample of your Gardenia Private Collection! It ...

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Agent Provocateur by Agent Provocateur (2000) {Perfume Review & Musings} : No, I don't know this object. It sounds very kitsch though, more ...

Brenda on Agent Provocateur by Agent Provocateur (2000) {Perfume Review & Musings} : I have a huge bottle of parfum I purchased in Cannes, FR ...

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on 16 Baby Approved Perfumes {Fragrance List} {Shopping Tips} : Do you mean, prestige baby perfumes? Guerlain have put out a new ...

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